Cycle the Back Roads of Sri Lanka

The group flight from London typically arrives at Bandaranayake International

Airport around lunchtime and we transfer to Sigiriya (approximately 4 hours)

where we stay for the next 2 nights.

After breakfast we ride along gravel roads following an old irrigation canal

to Dambulla, the 2nd Century BC Buddhist cave temple. It is well worth the

walk to view the five caves, which contain many ancient Buddha statues, some

carved from the solid rock. Returning via the busy market town we take

another quiet back road riding through chilli and rice fields before cycling

back at our hotel for lunch and a relaxing swim in the pool. In the late

afternoon we climb the 5th Century rock fortress of Sigiriya to see the

beautiful frescoes painted onto the rock face (not recommended for those who

suffer from vertigo). The ruins of the palace on the summit are surpassed

only by the magnificent aerial view of the surrounding jungle. Stay as long

as you like, as it's only 10 minutes walk back to our hotel.

A long morning ride along a quiet back road which is part of the Sigiriya

nature reserve, before joining the highway travelling east towards

Polonnaruwa, riding all the way to our lunch stop and overnight stay. For

those who fancy a swim, the hotel also has a swimming pool, a pleasant place

to spend the hot early afternoon. Later we tour the old ruined city of

Polonnaruwa, which dates from the 10-13th centuries.

We follow the local lake's man-made 6km dam and feeder canal to its source,

the Amban Ganga River. The afternoon ride is flanked by the stunning

Kalanduwa hills on one side and the borders of Wasgomuwa Wildlife Park on the

other. As the jungle gives way to plantations, we enter the spice growing

region of Sri Lanka. The night is spent in a family-run guest house with

small cabanas dotted around the estate. It’s basic but the home cooking in

clay pots on wood fired stoves gives you the real flavour of Sri Lanka. If

you would like to find out more about the spices used in the piquant Lankan

curries, the owners can arrange a visit to one of the renowned spice gardens

a short walk down the road.

Today is tougher as we head for the hills and Kandy, the spiritual and

cultural capital of the hill country. Those who feel like an easy day can

jump onto the bus for the 50km trip to Kandy, while the rest of us pedal

away, riding through the Moorish town of Matale. Its inhabitants, descendants

from Arab spice traders, still control most of the spice market, which is a

good place to pick up some freshly ground curry powder. As Kandy's roads are

as old as the city itself, we may have to drive the last few kilometres to

avoid the traffic. Surrounded by hills, the town is centred around a small

lake and the Temple of the Tooth. The afternoon is free to wander through the

streets and markets.

A free day to explore the town. Kandy has many interesting attractions

including the wonderful Botanical Gardens, the famous Temple of the Tooth,

and streets lined with interesting curio shops. The surrounding hills are

dotted with wonderful temples.

For anyone who doesn't do hills, we strongly recommend the train ride to

Nuwara Eliya. For those who feel like a challenge, it’s 84km, climbing up

to 2000m above sea level to reach this most favoured hill station. For the

first part of the ride we take the old road, a far more pleasant route, and

one of the few places where you see terraced paddy fields. Beyond the paddy

fields is tea country and the area is reputed to produce the finest teas on

the island. Tickets for the train journey are dependent on availability on

the day (although usually available, there may be the chance that the bus

will need to be used instead for those who don't fancy the hill).

In the morning we visit a tea factory on the edge of the town, and then cycle

through hilly country towards Ella, stopping for lunch at a local restaurant

and later tea in Bandarawela, a trading centre where exotic fruits from the

east coast are traded for hill-country vegetables. Arriving in the late

afternoon, we watch the sunset from the famous view point, Ella Gap. On a

clear day you can see the coast shimmering in the distance.

Descending 1000m we leave the breathtaking scenery of Uva Province for the

gentle rolling hills of the dry zone, stopping at the impressive rock-cut

Buddha Statues at Buduruvagala. The giant 15m rock carving of Buddha is

flanked by small figures depicting his helpers and a very rare image of

Maitreya, the future Buddha, which dates from the 10th Century. The

tranquillity of the place is enhanced by the lotus-covered lake where we will

relax on the banks and enjoy some fresh fruit before riding on to lunch. Here

we can retreat from the heat of the day, before the final 30km to

Tissamaharama, the capital of the old Ruhuna Kingdom.

In the morning we cycle to Kataragama temple, which lies 16km northeast of

Tissa. People of all faiths come to seek favour with the god Skanda, who is

reputed to restore people's health. The colourful and noisy pooja is always

busy, with thousands of pilgrims during the festival season from July -

August. Tissa is close to Yala National Park, the best park in Sri Lanka to

see leopard. After lunch we have a safari in the park, when we may see

elephant, deer, wild boar, sloth bear, Asian jackal, lots of birdlife and if

very lucky a leopard. We return to Tissa for the night (please note that the

sanctuary may be closed for 4-6 weeks from September to October allowing the

park authorities to check the animals. We therefore go to an alternative area

close by, usually Lunugamvehera or Udawalawe National Park).

Leaving early to avoid the heat of the dry zone, we ride along the boundary

of Bundala Bird Sanctuary. During certain times of the year, thousands of

flamingos can be seen wading in the brackish shallows, eyed up by crocodiles,

basking in the early morning sun. We hit the main road for the final 30km to

Hambantota, a series of sandy bays fanning out from this typical coastal

town. Transfer from Hambantota to Ahangama by coach. For the next 2 nights we

stay in Ahangama.

Relax at the hotel or join a late morning ride along rural roads to the

village of Wandurugama before returning via Koggala Lake and back to the

hotel to end our riding. This afternoon is free to explore the beach area or

swim and laze by the pool. In the late afternoon we can view the stilt

fishermen climb their poles to catch a few bites for supper. From November to

April we can also go whale watching off Dondra head, near Mirissa, which is

one of the best places in the world for seeing Blue and Sperm whales. Huge

pods of dolphins are also often seen accompanying the boats.

Leaving mid morning, we will stop to visit Galle. The Old Dutch fort was

built in 1663 after the Dutch took the island from the Portuguese. The old

ramparts and small back streets bring alive some of the history of the fight

for colonial domination of this prized island. You’re free to find your own

lunch, meeting back at the bus at around 2.30pm for the 2 hour drive to

Colombo. The rest of the day is free to relax by the pool or shop along the

main street. For the last evening meal we can choose from one of the many

restaurants in Colombo.

If you are travelling on the group flight we will have a morning transfer to

the airport for the daytime flight to London. The arrangements for those not

flying with the group end after check out.

**