Japan's Kumano Kodo

Those on the group flight will arrive into Kansai Airport and will be

transferred to Kyoto. Land only clients are free to arrive at the start hotel

anytime today. With about 2000 temples, shrines and gardens, Kyoto is a

treasure house of Japan's cultural heritage and remains undoubtedly one of

the most fascinating cities in Asia. Unlike many other Japanese cities it

escaped the ravages of both the Second World War and modern urban

development, thereby keeping intact much of the spirit and architecture of

traditional Japan. 



This evening there will be a briefing with your leader.

This morning we set out on our first hike to the northern mountains and the

Kibune shrine, followed by the Kurama temple and hot springs. Our first stop

of the day, however is going to be the Ginkakuji – Silver Pavilion. From

Ginkakuji we climb up to the Daimonji mountain for an excellent view of

Kyoto and then take a short train ride north to Kibune-guchi where the hike

to Kibune and Kifune shrine begins.



Kifune shrine was built upon the site where supposedly a goddess finished her

long journey via a boat. The small town of Kibune sprang into existence

shortly after to complement the shrine. Dedicated to the deity of water and

rain, all those who seek protection and maritime safety come here to pray –

especially the seamen and fishermen. The charming town is dotted with

traditional restaurants and inns, with river streams running beneath the

restaurant platforms. It’s an excellent opportunity to relax for a bit,

especially for those that would like to escape the crowds of Kyoto.



We then set out further on our hike for Kurama town, renowned for its Kurama

temple and special hot springs. The temple is nestled deep in the woods and

requires a fair bit of legwork to reach, but those who do venture to the

temple are rewarded with beautiful scenery along the path. 



We return to Kyoto for the evening where you can choose to join an optional

group dinner in the Gion district if you wish.

Leaving the north of Kyoto behind, today we will embark on a journey in the

opposite direction. Together we enjoy a pleasant hike on the Yamano be no

michi. The path is believed to be the oldest path still in existence

connecting Edo (present day Tokyo) with the western parts of Japan with a

history of more than 1200 years. Starting in present day Nara and spanning

through what used to be Yamato – the cradle of Japanese civilisation, the

trail will take you through over 15 kilometres of distance and two millennia

worth of history. Along the trail you will discover gems and relics of

distant past, like the sacred shrine of Omiwa. It is believed that the shrine

is the oldest one still standing in Japan, dating well back into 7th century

BC. Apart from the Omiwa shrine, there are many temples and shrines dotting

the trail that are worth the visit and the trail itself runs through lush

forests and comfortable paths, as well as rural villages where you can

experience the true Japanese hospitality as fruit vendors often offer their

locally grown fresh produce to visitors to give them an extra bit of energy

for hiking the trail.



In the late afternoon you will return to Kyoto and enjoy an evening at

leisure. Overnight in Kyoto.

Today we make an early start to visit the arguably most iconic sight of Kyoto

- Fushimi Inari Taisha Shinto Shrine. The common folk have worshipped the

deity of good harvest and good business since as early as the 7th century.

Inari – the deity that feed, clothes and protects households

became immensely popular over the centuries and shrines dedicated to this

deity are the most numerous in Japan.



Even today, to show gratitude for good business as well as to beckon good

fortune in future endeavours businessmen and entrepreneurs from all corners

of Japan donate a so called Torii arch to the shrine in hope of gaining the

continuous favour of the deity. Although this custom is fairly recent, the

mountain path through the shrine is dotted with thousands of the torii

arches. This makes for a wonderful morning stroll at the break of dawn. An

early start and beating the crowds is recommended, otherwise you will have to

compete with the hundreds and thousands of visitors Fushimi Inari attracts on

a daily basis. After the hike we return to the hotel. The rest of the morning

is free for visiting some of the famous sights in Kyoto such as the Imperial

Palace, Nijo castle or the Golden Pavillion and lunch.



In the afternoon we leave Kyoto by train and head to Kumano Kodo, a series of

ancient pilgrimage routes, dating back to over 1,000 years, when Japan's

imperial ancestors made pilgrimage trips from Kyoto. Located in the Kii

Peninsula, the largest in Japan, the trails along Kumano Kodo are an

incredible site for hiking.



By train we reach Tanabe city on the coast at the tip of the Kii peninsula,

where we spend the night in this rural seaside town.





 

After an early breakfast, we take a bus to Takijiri-oji, the starting point

of the pilgrimage from where we make our way on foot to Takahara. This is the

steepest part of the trail, leading to Takahara Shrine, a Shinto shrine

surrounded by ancient camphor trees. From the shrine, we walk towards

Takahara Village, also called “kiri-no-sato” (village in the fog), a

small quiet town with rice terraces and surrounded by forests.



The trail continues upwards until we reach the teahouse named

Uwadawa-jaya, from where the trail begins to descend, passing by ruin

shrines and small villages of Osakamoto-oji and Chikatsuyu-oji, crossing

Kitano-bashi Bridge, and following the road to Nonaka-no-Shimizu, a source of

potable water that also belongs to the Top 100 Famous Bodies of Water in

Japan.



Around Nonaka-no-Shimizu area, the group will be staying in a minshuku, a

traditional family-style inn that offers Japanese-style rooms. Your dinner

will feature some local specialties from the Kumano Kodo region.



Please note, due to the smaller sizes of accommodation in this location,

bigger groups may be accommodated across two minshuku inns this evening.

However, the group will still have meals together in one of the

accommodations in that case.



As our hike tomorrow is a bit longer and more challenging, it is highly

suggested to turn in early. 

Today we start with a short 10 minute bus ride to the start of our hike. We

first start walking uphill, and head towards the woods to see

Tsugizakura-oji, a sub-shrine located at the top of steep stairs leading into

a thick forest of huge cedar trees that are believed to be almost a century

old. Next to the entrance of Tsugizakura-oji, we will find Toganoki-jaya, a

replica of a traditional Japanese-style teahouse. 



We then continue with a slow ascent to Kobiro-toge pass, followed by a

relatively downward trail along a series of paved and unpaved paths,

passing Jagata-jizo, which is believed to protect the travelers from evil

spirits, a couple river crossings and passing by thick forests of cedar and

cypress trees until we reach Kumano Hongu Taisha, the head shrine of more

than 3,000 Shinto shrines in the Kumano area.



 After visiting the shrine, we transfer by local bus to Yunomine Onsen, one

of the oldest and most crucial hot spring resorts in Japan as it used to be

the place where pilgrims cleansed themselves before praying at Kumano Hongu

Taisha.



Tonight you will stay at a ryokan, another traditional Japanese-style inn,

where you will sleep on a futon, have access to the public onsen, and enjoy

your bento style dinner.

 

After breakfast we take a bus from Yunomine Onsen to Ukegawa where today's

hike (mainly along unpaved road) will commence.



Today during the hike we pass by the remains of an old teahouse called

Matsuhata-jaya and Hyakken-gura, one of the top spots in Wakayama to see

the surrounding Kumano mountain range, which consists of around 3,600 peaks.



From here we continue on a mainly level road towards the remains of

the Sakura-jaya teahouse, before descending from the hills, along a path

with cobblestones that can be slippery especially if wet or covered with

moss. At the foot of the hill, we should find some small prayer tablets that

have been left there by other spiritual hikers as offerings. We continue onto

Koguchi, the end of today's walk where we take a bus via Kanmaru to Kawayu

onsen. This place is famous for the hot spring beside the river. 



*Omuraya Ryokan or similar*

This morning we rise very early return to Koguchi to begin our hike.

Today’s trail is one of the most challenging sections of Kumano Kodo – it

will take us through forested hills and along unpaved roads. However, a

series of historical sites and wonderful views awaits as we pass by Waroda-

ishi rock (where the Kumano deities are believed to meet and chat over tea),

through the woods of Irokawatsuji, and over Funami-toge Pass, where we have a

glimpse of the Pacific Ocean.



After hiking for almost 8 hours, we arrive in Nachi. Here we will see Nachi

Falls, the highest waterfall in Japan, and pay a visit to Kumano Nachi Taisha

shrine.



Later in the afternoon you will transfer by local bus (approx. 30 minutes) to

Katsuura, staying at a Japanese Inn on the beautiful islet dotted Katsuura

Bay, where you will be able to enjoy listening to the ocean waves and relax

after completing our hikes along the memorable Kumano Kodo.

After having your breakfast, get ready for a short walk to return to Katsuura

station on foot (with your luggage), from where we begin our journey by train

to Toba, located in the neighbouring Mie Prefecture.



The rural Mie Prefecture is famous for its forested landscapes and

Mediterranean looking coastlines. The area is also famous for producing some

of the freshest seafood in Japan and, in its waters, pearl cultivation has

become an important activity.



Upon arrival in Toba, we store our luggage safely at the station before

having lunch and walking a short distance across to Mikimoto Pearl Island

where we will learn all about pearl cultivation and the life of the Ama

divers. These female divers are famous for their century's long tradition of

diving for pearls without oxygen masks and here we will be able to witness an

Ama diver demonstration.



Afterwards, we continue to the area of Osatsu in Toba where we spend the next

2 nights at a ryokan in Japanese style rooms.

This morning there will be the opportunity to relax in the ryokan or enjoy a

walk around the local neighbourhood where there may be the chance to visit a

local shrine and temple or in warmer weather, enjoy a swim at the local sandy

beach.



Late morning, we take a short walk to visit the hut of an Ama diver, who will

prepare a grilled seafood meal.



After lunch, we continue to the Ise Shrine by train, one of the most sacred

areas for the Shinto religion and a favourite pilgrimage destination for

Japanese people.



Just a short walk away, the picturesque district of Okage-Yokocho offers a

great outlook on the traditional side of the area with its quaint shops

selling local arts and crafts as well as food before returning to our ryokan.



Tonight we spend our second evening in Toba.





 

A long and scenic train journey with one change today takes us to Kiso

Fukushima in about 4.5 hours. 



Upon arrival at Kiso Fukushima, we take a short orientation tour with our

leader. Kiso-Fukushima is a delightful town in Nagano Prefecture on the

railway line between Nagoya and Matsumoto in central Japan and is located

roughly half-way along the Nakasendo.



Kiso-Fukushima was an important checkpoint on the route, and its historic

sekisho, or barrier station, is one of only two on the Nakasendo. The

Fukushima Sekisho-ato (checkpoint) is where travellers on the Nakasendo were

made to wait and present their passes to travel on the highway. The Tokugawa

regime was on the look-out for guns and women travelling in disguise; the

daimyo (feudal lords) were forced to leave their wives and children in the

capital of Edo as virtual hostages under a policy known as sankin-kotai.



Across the Kiso River from the Fukushima Sekisho-ato is Kozenji Temple with

an attractive rock garden. Kozenji Temple is free to enter and lovely

especially in autumn.



We spend the next 2 nights in Kiso Fukushima in a Japanese style rooms at a

simple family-run ryokan.

After an early breakfast, we travel by train to Nagiso in about 50 minutes.

Upon arrival at Nagiso Station, we take a short ride on a local bus to

Tsumago, a well-preserved post town.



Tsumago was in its Golden Era during the time when merchants and other noble

and prominent people frequently passed through for trade and other formal

appointments. 



From Tsumago we start the journey to Magome, one of the post towns that

flourished in the Edo Period. The trail that runs from Tsumago to Magome is

perhaps the most popular section of Nakasendo. This ancient trail can be

completed in about 3 hours, including some quick breaks. After concluding the

trail, ride a bus to Nakatsugawa, and then a train back to Kiso Fukushima in

just over one hour.

After breakfast we embark on our last scenic train journey to Tokyo in a

little over 3 hours and 1 change along the way. If weather conditions permit

we may catch a glimpse of Mt. Fuji on the way. We recommend to buy a bento

on the way for lunch as the journey is about 3 hours. Your leader will be

able to advise.



After check in at our hotel you have a few hours to explore Tokyo before an

optional farewell dinner.

For land only clients, the trip ends this morning after breakfast. Those on

the group flights back to London will be transferred by shared shuttle in the

late afternoon/early evening (depending on flight schedule) in time to check

in for their flight. Land only clients also have a free shared shuttle

departure on the day the trip ends included to either Haneda or Narita

airport. The free shared shuttle departure transfer *must* be requested in

advance with Exodus before departure if you wish to utilise this service (all

requests are subject to availability and must be confirmed before departure).

It is not possible to request this service once a trip has commenced.